The Oils You NEED (and the ones you don’t) In Your Skincare
Everyone has an opinion about oils, there is no neutral territory, some say they’re best at calming breakouts, others say they cause breakouts, so what is the actual benefit of applying oil to your skin? To thoroughly understand how oils affect your skin let’s take a deep dive into the world of oils.
Oils have been used in skincare products for thousands of years and some oils are non comedogenic, yet many of the ones used in modern advanced skincare are plant based oils that are packed full of vitamins, minerals, fatty acids and antioxidants that can lock in moisture, increase elasticity and help protect from future damage.
Oils Alone Don’t Moisturise Your Skin
A moisturiser is made of three types of ingredients; humectants, emollients and occlusives. Humectants draw in water and hydrate the skin, emollients soften the skin and occlusives seal in both humectants and emollients so they don’t leave. So trying to moisturise your skin with oil alone is like sitting in a car when it’s raining and expecting to get wet, it’s just not going to happen. Oils work best when they are combined with other ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid and Dimethicone where they work together to repair and enhance the skin barrier.
Linoleic and Oleic Acid
Studies have shown that natural oils with high levels of linoleic acid (Jojoba and Sunflower oil) aka omega-6 fatty acid, are excellent at repairing the natural skin barrier whereas oils with high amounts of oleic acid (Olive oil) that are applied directly to the skin can be detrimental to skin barrier repair. If you are using a product with a mix of linoleic and oleic acid it doesn't mean the product is bad, the entire formulation and concentration of ingredients is what matters.
Rosehip oil has a high concentration of linoleic acid (44%) which studies have shown is helpful for acne. People that are acne prone tend to have low levels of linoleic acid and a high percentage of oleic acid in their sebum, so it may seem counterproductive putting an oil onto oily skin, but it’s actually helping balance the skin. Linoleic acid isn't the only thing that Rosehip oil has going for it, it contains high levels of Vitamin A and antioxidants. You can find Rosehip oil in our Intensive Night Repair.
Squalane moisturises the skin by trapping in moisture and is the lighter version of Squalene which is found naturally in the skin. “Squalane really helps the microflora on our skin, but also is an antioxidant which is why we added it to the Hydrating Day Defence to help protect the skin from the free radicals that you're exposed to all day,” explains Professor Derek Richard. You can find Squalane in our Hydrating Day Defence and Detoxifying Exfoliant.
Is not technically an oil but a wax ester, which means it’s one of the closest matches to natural human sebum and helps balance the skin’s oil production. Jojoba is a repairative ingredient for skin conditions with damaged skin barriers such as psoriasis and rosacea and is incredibly stable as it's a wax rather than an oil which can go rancid quickly. You can find Jojoba oil in our Intensive Night Repair.
This non fragrant plant oil is one the best additions to cleansers as it helps break up makeup on the skin in a gentle way instead of stripping the skin. It contains a very high percentage of linoleic acid (62%) and other essential fatty acids which makes it a great skin hydrator. You can find Sunflower oil in our Hydro Gel Cleanser, Detoxifying Exfoliant and Intensive Night Repair.
Ellus & Krue's - Hydro Gel Cleanser